Apparently it's the fourth time that's the charm. I now have a T-shirt Master Pattern.
On the last (4th!) attempt, I took in the side-seams 1/4" then shaped them. The revised garment is flattering. Which is not the same as saying I love it.
In all honesty, I prefer my t-shirts more fitted. It's the inner 20-yr-old in me. Like my inner child, my inner sexy babe refuses to acknowledge the passing of time. Too bad my waistline doesn't....
Back to the newest t-shirt pattern. There's no more shaping to be had. The side-seams are as shapely as they're ever going to be. The only way I'm going to accomplish a closer fit is by:
a) going tighter (negative ease forces the material to curve to the body)
b) putting in a shaped centre back-seam
c) losing 20 lbs
The problem with:
a) it shows my lumps and bumps
b) it's the extra work plus the non-conventional look (although Banana Republic has done it)
c) - hahaha!
I may add that back-seam on special shirts, otherwise this is it.
The good news is the shoulder-seams sit where I want them, as do the armscye-seams. The sleeves are fitted, which I prefer. Loose sleeves add visual weight to the body and I have enough width without adding extra via floppy sleeves. A tiny bit of negative space between the sleeve and torso is much more flattering. Plus fitted sleeves stay pushed up better.
I owe this post some photos. All my new shirts are in the laundry basket. (I wanted to field test the last one before declaring the pattern a success.)
Pattern: Bianca Sweater from Loes Hinse
Alterations: 1) Moved shoulder seam forward 5/8" at armscye for forward round shoulder. 2) Took in and reshaped the side-seams. This pattern is designed with small tucks on the front, so I removed them at the same time. 3) Lengthened the body by 2". 4) Widened the back bodice armscye 3/8" for my prominent shoulder blades (aka angel wings).
Result: Well pleased with this version. It's my new T-shirt Master Pattern.
Not love. Interested, maybe, as in the uncommitted but definitely intrigued level of enthusiasm. While the other t-shirt patterns in my stash are in no immediate danger of being tossed, they're probably quivering in their paper envelopes a little.
The body of the latest garment was baggy, especially in the back. While Version 2 of the Stretch & Sew French T was hooker tight, Version 1 of the Loes Hinse Bianca (forever to be referred to as Bianca 1 from this day forth) was shapeless and made me feel, well, dowdy. It wasn't flowy and drapey. It was just baggy and shapeless. Like a sweatshirt.
This should come as no surprise. The sides of the pattern are ruler straight. Loes Hinse usually recommends heavy drapey fabric for her garments, and I'm sure heavy drapey fabric would hang and droop in a way that would mold to the body. Think slinky knit. My cotton/spandex knit was perky and bouncy and held its shape. No hanging therefore no shape.
So I ripped it out and tried again. In an attempt to give the back more shape, I took in the back an 1/2" along the side seams but that pulled the side seams to the back.
So I ripped it out and tried again. (I get a lot of entertainment value for my fabric dollar, playing with the same piece over and over like this.) This time I took in both sides equally - 1/4". Better. But still frumpy.
The front is okay. It's the back that bags and sags. This is a common problem for me with loose t-shirts and it's not flattering.
Several times in this quest for the ideal t-shirt pattern, I've thought of adding a back seam for shaping. But it seemed weird, as well as a lot of extra work. Then I saw a Banana Republic t-shirt with a back seam. Hmmmmmmm.... Maybe not so weird?
The fabric in Bianca 1 has provided enough entertainment value. Any more play and I'm in danger of wearing it out. The t-shirt is totally wearable, but it doesn't have the look I'm envisioning.
For the future Bianca 2, I'm going to morph the shapely side seams from French T Version 2 onto it. If that doesn't work, then Bianca 3 will have a back seam.
Do you have a favorite t-shirt? Is it shaped or straight sided?
- Lady T
